My hamster's eating his/her poo?!

Hamsters eating their poo is a common cause for concern amongst hamster owners everywhere.

- The idea of eating waste that has been digested is disgusting!

But I would like to put your minds at rest. Eating their poo isn't bad for hamsters!

Hamsters are very curious creatures, and their digestive systems do not work the same as humans.

You could say their digestive systems were less efficient, as some of their poo is still filled with nutrients which means that they have not absorbed all the nutrients while being digested. But there is a reason behind this, which is explained below.

As their poo is filled with nutrients, they eat it so they can get the most out of their food. It's simply like putting food through your digestive system twice to get the best out of it. Not gross at all if you think of it like that!

Picture via here.

There are two types of excrement from hamsters:

1. One that's only partially digested and therefore contains lots of nutrients
2. One that's that's just waste with no nutrients at all

Now hamsters are highly intelligent in working out which is which, and they use a skill called coprophagy: the act of eating the nutrient-filled excrement to get the leftover nutrients from it and digest it fully.

Why do hamsters partially digest some, and fully digest others?

This is because in the harsh deserts and environments in places like Syria where hamsters originally come from, food is often scarce. By only partially absorbing the nutrients and the hamsters being able to eat their excretment again, this allows that food to be completely digested so that the hamsters get the most out of it, and they do not go hungry if they go for days without food.
It also helps to keep hamsters' guts balanced, so not too many nutrients are absorbed at once, and also making sure that there will also be a source of nutrients for hamsters to eat.

Myths and Misunderstandings

So today I thought I would just point out some basic myths and put them straight - as sometimes it is hard to know what is true and what isn't. Here are 3 myths I have chosen, but I can always do more if they are helpful!

Myth: Syrian hamsters can learn to live together/ 'my Syrian hamsters live together and I haven't had any problems so far so it is fine.'

Truth: Even in the wild Syrians never live together, so why would they in captivity? Syrian hamsters only come together to mate, then the male leaves almost instantly. They are together for sometimes only 10 minutes (though this depends on conditions etc.)The female hamster raises it's young on its own, without the male. The young then go and find their own place and territory, and the 'cycle' repeats.

They are solitary by nature, so they are solitary in captivity too. By putting your Syrian hamsters in the same cage it is asking for trouble, because they are bound to fight and hurt each other at some point. I know someone who put her two hamsters in the same cage, and one ate the other... So you should be really careful.

Remember - this only applies to Syrian hamsters.

Fights between two Syrian hamsters can lead to injuries, expensive vet bills, stressed hamsters or even death. Don't tempt fate and put them together - it just isn't worth it.
It is also easier for hamsters to catch illnesses from each other if they share a cage, so even if your hamsters do miraculously get on, it still isn't worth it.

Don't put your Syrian hamsters together. they won't be lonely, they will be fine.

Myth: Sunflower seeds are unhealthy and should only be fed as treats or not at all.

Truth: Many people think that sunflower seeds are unhealthy and too fattening for hamsters. Many people avoid them and only give them once in a while for treats. The truth is sunflower seeds are actually very healthy. They contain essential nutrients that help a keep a hamster's body healthy. Sunflower seeds help health in your hamster's heart and are cholesterol-lowering, so sunflower seeds are really great for your hamster’s well being. This myth probably started because someone fed their hamster too many sunflower seeds at the same time. It is the same as most foods - they are good in moderation, but too many can be unhealthy too. Most hamster mixes you can buy will come with the right amount of sunflower seeds in anyway, so you don't need to worry. Giving your hamster about three to six sunflower seeds a day or so will give your hamster the balance that they need in their diet.

(I use selective hamster food, and those are little hearts with things basically mashed up inside them. These should include sunflower seeds too, so don't worry. I occasionally give Willow some sunflower seeds too, but the selective hamster food also covers that nutritional value, so don't panic if you feed your hamster those!)

Picture via here.

Myth: Hamsters smell really bad

Truth: All animals will smell if they are not kept in a clean environment. Hamsters are not typically smelly hamsters, and often groom themselves and keep themselves clean at all times. They are tidy animals, and usually have special parts of the cage they use as their 'bathroom'. This is the area you should give extra-special attention to when cleaning it.
If the hamster is really smell, it is time to clean the cage. You should clean your hamster out around once a week, but you could always do this more if your hamster is really smelly.

If the cage is not well ventilated this may cause your hamster to smell as well. If this is the case then you may need to change or modify your cage to make it more comfortable for your hamster and less smelly for you.

Also, female hamster may give off a smell when they are in heat. Not all females smell strongly when on heat, but some do. If you are worried about this then you can always get a male hamster. But not everyone can detect the smell of a female hamster's heat anyway, so it isn't much of a problem. I never noticed anything smelly about Lolly or Willow, and they are/were both girls!

I hope this was helpful! Please comment if you want me to do more, cause trust me, there are plenty of crazy myths around!

Hamster Exercise Balls - Safe or not?

Over the years of me owning hamsters, I have heard many debates about whether these exercise balls are cruel. Personally I think that if you use the balls properly, and make sure you don't leave your hamster in there too long and you frequently check up on them, that these exercise balls are safe. I have had a many hamsters over the years and all of them enjoyed exploring and running around in their ball. However, there are still many people who think that these toys are cruel. So I have decided to share my views on hamster exercise balls, using some common arguments of people who think they are cruel.
No offense to the people who said these comments is meant, I just wanted to show my opinion through examples.

Hamster Wheels

This is a brief but important post about hamster wheels. It does not take long to read through, but I think what this post says is important to any hamster or small pet owner, like mice, gerbils etc.

Intro

Most cages come with a 6 Inch wheel in them, but this is not big enough for an adult Syrian hamster. Syrian Hamsters require an 8 inch wheel (minimum)  to be able to run in comfort without arching their backs, and causing back problems or other problems for your hamster. A wheel should be available at all times to any small animal similar to hamsters.

Important

DO NOT  buy your hamster a metal running wheel. This can be really dangerous for hamsters, as they can get their feet caught between the bars and seriously injure themselves. They can also cause painful sores on hamster’s feet, called bumbles. Stick to smooth plastic wheels where their feet can’t get caught or damaged.

If you have a metal hamster wheel or a wheel smaller than 8", do not panic. Just replace the wheel as soon as possible so that your hamster does not get back or feet problems.

What is a Syrian hamster?

A Syrian hamster is a solitary burrowing rodent with characteristics of a short tail and large cheek pouches (though when their cheek pouches are empty you can’t tell that they are large). The cheek pouches are for carrying food to their burrows.

Hamsters are native to Europe and northern Asia, though are now common pet’s in many countries, for both young and old.

Syrian hamsters can come in many different colours. 

They can be black, grey, brown, white, ginger, golden, blond, or a mix of a few different colours. (For example, Willow is a mix of brown and white).

Hamsters can be long or short haired. If you choose a long haired Syrian, you should by a small pet brush to stop your hamster’s coat getting matted. If one parent is long haired and the other short haired it is a good idea to get a small brush anyway, although the hamster is likely to just be quite fluffy rather than have really long hair.

Hope this is helpful to clarify a bit about Syrian hamsters, though I'm sure most of you already know what a Syrian hamster is!

Hamster Heights

Did you know that hamsters can not tell the difference between a 2 foot drop and a 10 foot drop?

Hamsters can't tell the difference in heights. This is because they came from the desert where there are no sudden drops. They originally lived underground in burrows and in the desert they would not be put in a situation where they will need to jump down from somewhere, so they had no need to tell the difference in heights.

This means that you have to be careful when holding your hamster, especially if your hamster is frightened in any way. (if he/she is new then she is more likely to jump too)

Hamsters can withstand falling from high heights, but even so it is not good for your hamster and there is always the risk of injuries. It is best to be safe and be careful.

THIS PHOTO IS NOT WILLOW. It's from here.

WAYS TO AVOID HAMSTER INJURIES WHEN HANDLING:

• When holding your hamster, hold him or her near the floor, or sit on a sofa where your hamster could jump onto.
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• If going up/down the stairs with your hamster, gently cup your hands over him or her so that they can not suddenly jump out your hands.
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• Always keep your eyes on your hamster when handling them - don't get distracted and look away too long otherwise they could jump off the sofa or jump from your hands etc.

Willow's Post - Water bottles?

Today I have decided to do a post on water bottles and how often you should change them etc.

I think it's important to change the water at least once every 3 days if possible. This will keeps me (and other hamsters) healthy, and - let's face it - no-one likes drinking stale water which has been there for days.

Hannah changes my water every 3 days usually, sometimes more often, or if she forgets sometimes 4 days after she last changed it.. though seeing as she picks me up every day and is quite obsessed with playing with me, it's very rare that she does forget!

It won't kill me, or any other hamster, if you change the water once a week. It just isn't that nice for us. However, with some hamsters when the water hasn't been changed for ages, (I mean for longer than a week e.g. 2 weeks), they might stop drinking water if it is often stale, and this does lead to illnesses... - so be careful.

Now I don't want you to stop reading this and think "Arrghhh! I only change the water once a week - my hamster will die!", cause that's simply not true. Just bare what I have said in mind for the future. That's all I ask of you. :)

Hope you enjoyed this post, and I hope you found this helpful!

- Willow x

Willow's Post - Flash photography

Hannah really likes taking photos of me. Sometimes I don't feel like having my photo taken and I'm quite hyper, so Hannah doesn't bother with the photos, but sometimes I am in a really calm mood and Hannah takes some photos of me and she puts them on this blog.

I don't mind having my photos taken, because Hannah is still really gentle with me, and she doesn't use flash so it's fine. Some people do use flash, and that would bother me, cause flash really damages our eyes! Hamster eyes are really delicate- though some people ignore that and take photos with flash just so that their photos are better! Some people...

Lots of people don't realize how bad the camera flash is for hamsters. We're not like humans, the flash effects us long-term. We are nocturnal creatures, so our eyes are made for seeing in the dark. When there is a really bright flash then it goes back to normal light again, our eyes just can't cope. I don't think Hannah has ever used flash on me, but I can imagine that it would be painful.
Flash photography can cause pets to go blind, which is really sad because your owner is practically swapping your eyesight for some cute snaps by accident! :(

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Sorry about my little hamster-rant, but it needed to be said. DON'T USE FLASH PEOPLE!

- Willow x

How to stop a hamster Nipping

As I was saying in earlier posts, I have been having a small problem with Willow nipping (though she has stopped now), so I deiced to do a post on a few of the best ways to stop nipping.

I will also add some website addresses to the bottom of this if anyone wants a few more tips, though I do not know how accurate all tips are.

Here are my tips, in order of how important I think they are from 1 to 6:

1. Wash your hands thoroughly before handling your hamster. If you eat food then handle your hamster without washing your hands then your hamster could mistake your hand/finger for food.

2. Try not to disturb your hamster while he/she is sleeping, as your hamster is more likely to bite when he/she is tired and wants to go back to bed. If you have to wake your hamster up, leave a little time him/her to wake up properly in her cage.

3. When approaching your hamster, hold your whole hand out- not just one finger. If you only hold out one finger they often mistake it for food. They will probably sniff your whole hand, but they are less likely to bite.

4. Even if your hamster bites, be patient and try to show that you are not going to hurt him/her. You can do this by stroking her even while she is biting you. If the bites really hurt you could resort to gloves, though personally I don't recommend this as I think it is better for your hamster to get used to your scent.

5. Handle your hamster very gently at all times, and try not to enclose him/her in your hands too tightly or she could bite.

6: Feed your hamster before you handle him/her. (it can be in the morning and handle your hamster in the evening, you don't have to feed your hamster right before... you get the jist) Your hamster may nip just because he/she is hungry!

Picture from here

Hope this wasn't too much information!

But if you want more information, visit the site below that I used for some of my tips:

http://www.ehow.com/how_2246572_stop-hamsters-from-biting.html

Buying a Hamster

When you buy a hamster there are certain things you must check before you buy it.

The most important thing you need to check is that the hamster is healthy.

Here is a quick list of things you should do and look out for when choosing your hamster:

The Hamster Cage

• Check that the cage looks clean
• The cage should not be overcrowded
• The hamsters should have access to food and water at all times

Hamster sex and age

• The hamsters should be separated by sex; males in one cage, females in another
• If buying from a pet shop and the staff don't know the sex of the hamsters this is not a good sign. You could end up buying a pregnant female and this could cause many problems.
• The hamsters should be no younger than 5 weeks old when you buy them. If they are younger than this, they are too young to be sold.

The healthiness of the hamster

• If one hamster in the cage with other hamsters look sick it is best not to get a hamster from that cage, as this puts all the hamsters in the cage at risk of illness.
• The hamster should have bright eyes when awake.
• The hamster should not have runny or sticky eyes, runny nose, sneezing, wet or dirty bottom, matted fur, or seem lethargic.
• You should ask to hold the hamster before you buy it- to check it over one last time and check if it is tame.

What not to feed your hamster...

Hi everyone!

After the sad loss of Lolly I was unsure of whether to carry on with 'The Hamster Guide', though I have already done a few pages which would seem like a waste if I didn't use them.

I think I will continue, but I am still not sure whether I will or not.

For now here is a quick preview. The book would be around A5 size, and this would be a double spread. Sorry if you can't read it that well at the moment, it would be bigger if/when printed.

Hope you like it; feel free to leave any feedback on it, and tell me if you know
of anything important I missed off.

* * * * * * * * * * * *

As for Lolly, I miss her so much, but she lived a happy life and did not die in too much pain and that is all I could have asked for.

I was with her when she died, so I know I loved her to the very last minute of her life.

So for now I am alright, though still very sad.
                   

Z for Zoology

Day #27 of the A-Z Challenge

Today is the last day of the A-Z challenge, I feel quite sad really!

I think it will be nice to not have to do a post a day, but I think I will miss all the extra posts from some of the great blogs I read...

Anyway, lets continue with the post!

I decided to do a post on zoology for z, as I thought this was the most appropriate word begging with 'z'.

Picture from here

Z is for Zoolgy, so here is the scientific classification of a Syrian or Golden Hamster.

            Kingdom        – Animalia (Animal)                            

             Phylum           – Chordata (Animals with backbones)

               Class             – Mammalia (Mammals)                     

             Order             – Rodentia                                        

             Sub Order         – Myomorpha                                     

             Superfamily        – Muroidea                                         

             Family            – Cricetidae                                    

             Subfamily         – Cricetinae                                      

             Genus            – Mesocricetus                             

                                       Species            - M. auratus                                                               

Zoology is part of biology - we were studying it this year.

I hope that although this is biology, it will still be interesting to all you hamster lovers :)

X for Xmas

Day #24 of the A-Z Challenge

Well, X  is an especially hard day to write for, as there are only roughly 17 words beginning with 'x' in the oxford dictionary. I choose Xmas, as I felt this was the only word I could sort of link to animals.

As you all know, hamsters are living creatures with their own minds and personalities, and their own life.

If you give a hamster as a present, (for instance and Xmas present), you have to make sure that the person you are giving the hamster to is willing and able to look after a hamster.

If you do decide to give a hamster for a present, then don't put it in a little box and wrap it up, even for the night - the hamster could suffocate, or panic due to being confined.

The best way to give a hamster is to buy a hamster cage and wrap it up, without the hamster in it. Give it as a present, and take whoever you are giving the present to with you to a pet shop to choose their own hamster. This is better in many ways, as this means that the person receiving the hamster will be able to pick just the type and colour of hamster that they want, and it is also much less stressful for the hamster this way, as they don't have to be hidden or wrapped up.

Another safe way to give a hamster for a present is to wrap up the hamster supplies, (food, bedding, water bottle etc.), and put the hamster in a cage already somewhere safe and hidden in the house. This way the hamster will have a small amount of time to settle into the cage before getting played with, and also means the hamster does not have the stress of being wrapped up.

V for Videos

Day #22 of the A-Z Challenge

Whilst browsing animal information videos on youtube, I came across some really interesting ones from 'Animal Planet', so I thought I'd share them with you.

They are really informative as well as fun, so please take a few minutes to watch one or two of them.

Here are just a two on hamsters and rabbits. To see more of the 'Pets 101' series visit this link.

S for Sunflower Seeds

Day #19 of the A-Z Challenge

O for Open

Day #15 of the A-Z Challenge

This post is just going to be a quick post on what to do when your hamster's cage is left open... and if your hamster escapes.

The top 10 things you should do when you find out your hamster is missing:

1. Don't panic! If you start panicking, it is only going to make it harder for you to concentrate on finding your hamster!
   
   
   
   
2. Have a look around the room, but while looking shuffle your feet instead of walking normally, so you don't accidentally step on your hamster.
   
   
   
   
3. Remove any cleaning supplies, mousetraps chemicals or art supplies off of the floors so that they are not a danger to your hammy, and put them away.
   
   
   
   
4. If you are about to sit on the sofa or lie on your bed,check under the cushions and mattresses before sitting or lying down. Hamsters like to burrow in warm and cozy places, and you don't want to crush your hamster!
   
   
   
   
5. If you have any cats or other pets roaming around the house, put them in a room far away from your hamster's cage, as it is less likely that your hamster would have wondered that far. If you don't want to lock your pet indoors, you could always leave it outside on a warm day for a while while you search -- but be careful, you don't want to loose that pet as well!
   
   
   
   
6. Make sure that anyone who enters the house knows that your hamster has escaped, and make sure they know what to do, and what not to do.
   
   
   
   
7. Leave the cage door open - your hamster might decide to come home on his own.
   
   
   
   
8. Put a large bucket of some kind in the room your hamster is most likely to be, (e.g. the room with your hamster's cage in it), and put a yummy hamster treat in the bottom of it, along with some hamster bedding.
   
   
   
   
9. Make sure to attach some sort of ladder, or some way which your hamster can climb into the bucket.
   
   
   
   
10. Now it is just waiting to see if your hamster will turn up. Remember, hamster's are nocturnal, so don't worry if they are not captured in the day. Do not panic!

Hope this helps anyone who has lost a hamster!

N is for Nocturnal

Day #14 of the A-Z Challenge

Hamsters are nocturnal because they originally lived in the hot areas of Central Asia, and lived in burrows in the daytime and went out at night to avoid the heat of the day.

Also, there are many daytime predators, so by only coming out at night, they are keeping themselves safe.

This means that it is only fair to let them sleep during the day, so don't be tempted to wake your hamster up at midday for a play; try and wait until at least 4 o'clock.

This will allow your hamster a sensible amount of sleep, and will prevent him or her from being grumpy or nipping you.

Also, bear this in mind when you clean your hamster out. Remember - try not to wake your hamster before 4 o'clock.

I for Idea

Day #9 of the A-Z Challenge

Today I thought I'd share another creative hamster idea for you, as a follow on from 'C for Creative'.

#2 - a Boredom Breaker

Idea created by Onion

You will be needing the following:

         Hamster Treats  (for example, yogurt drops and peanuts)                                                Toilet Roll Tube

Get the empty toilet tube and fold up one end of it (pic. 3), then put a few treats into it.

(note: do not put too many in, as this will not be good for your hamster. You do not need to completely fill the tube)

Then add shredded tissue paper if you want.

Then simply close up the other end and give it to your hamster to chew at and have fun with!

It is simple, but very effective for reducing boredom.

Picture 3

Hope you like this cool hamster toy idea! All praise must go to Onion for this great idea!

G is for Gardens

Day #7 of the A-Z Challenge

It is not recommended that you take your hamster outside.

This is because there are many dangers, like birds and foxes, and also the temperature, as hamsters are very small and can't be too hot or too cold.

Vets do not recommend you take your hamster outside, but if you really have to, I want to at least alert you of the possible dangers.

Here are a few main points for you to consider if taking your hamster outside:

• Time -You shouldn't take your hamster out for long, as daytime for us is night-time for them as they are nocturnal.
  
  
• Temperature -Never do it on a chilly or hot day
• Place -Watch out for Birds, Dogs, Cats, Pesticides, or any other animals which might harm your hamster, or give it an illness.
• Prepare a playpen -Don't let them run freely, or they might escape and run away. Unfortantly they won't last long outside alone.

F is for Fact-file - hamsters

Day #6 of the A-Z Challenge

This post is all about hamsters, and simple little facts.

It's not much, but I thought it might be interesting for all  you hamster lovers (inc. myself) ;)

Names

A female hamster is called a sow

A male hamster is called a boar

Hamster's young are called pups

Baby hamster info

A hamster's litter can be 4 - 12 pups

Baby hamster's birth weight is usually 2 - 3 grams

Baby hamster's eyes open at 12 - 14 days

Baby hamster's weaning age is about 3 weeks

General hamster facts

Hamsters lifespan is from 1 - 3 years

A male hamster's average weight is 85 - 130 grams 

A female hamster's average weight is 95 - 150 grams

Hamster art made by me, by using other picture and cutting and pasting them together.

For more information, please visit http://www.petsittingadvice.co.uk/hamsters.htm